How to Clean UGG Boots
UGG's twinface sheepskin is delicate — the suede exterior scars and stains easily, and the wool interior mats if it's cleaned or dried the wrong way. UGG's own method centers on one detail people usually skip: the cleaner never touches the boot directly, only a wet sponge. Get that step right, plus the drying and stain removal that follow, and a pair of UGGs holds up for years. One caveat: UGG also sells treated, waterproof, and UGGpure lines that clean differently, so check the label inside your pair first.
Key takeaways
- UGG's official method applies diluted cleaner to a wet sponge, never straight onto the sheepskin — and uses cold water, not warm.
- Air dry for at least 24 hours away from any heat source; heat and sun stiffen sheepskin and make it brittle.
- Salt, oil, and odor remedies here are third-party, not from UGG — spot-test on a hidden patch first.
- Apply UGG's Water & Stain Repellent before the first wear, not after a stain appears — sheepskin isn't naturally waterproof.
- Check the care label inside your specific pair; UGGpure, waterproof, and treated lines don't all clean the same way.
The official clean: sponge, not soak
- Lightly dampen the boot with cold, clean water.
- Dilute UGG Sheepskin Cleaner & Conditioner 1:1 with cold water.
- Apply the diluted cleaner to a wet sponge — never pour it directly onto the sheepskin.
- Gently scrub the whole surface; skip aggressive scrubbing.
- Rinse with cold water.
- Stuff the boots with paper to hold their shape.
- Air dry slowly, away from heat.
- Once dry, brush the nap one direction with a suede brush.
For slippers, vacuum the interior and lining and pull out the wool innersoles first. Clean both boots evenly — cleaning shifts sheepskin color slightly, so an uneven clean leaves visible patchiness.
What never touches a UGG
- Never machine wash or dry.
- Never soak or submerge the boots.
- Never use household cleaners — ammonia, bleach, or peroxide damage the sheepskin.
- Never dry with direct heat or in direct sun.
Salt, oil, and odor (third-party methods — spot-test first)
These aren't UGG's own instructions, so test on a hidden patch first, and prefer the official cleaner when in doubt.
Salt lines: blot, don't scrub, with a 1:1 white vinegar and cold water mix, or a mild dish-soap solution. Blot dry, stuff with paper, air dry, then brush the nap. UGG's own answer here is really prevention — a repellent before the salt ever touches the boot.
Oil or grease: cover the fresh stain thickly with chalk dust, cornstarch, or talc, leave ~24 hours to absorb, then brush or vacuum off.
Mud: let it dry completely before doing anything — brushing wet mud grinds it in. For surface dirt, dry-brush first.
Dry them right — this is where most pairs get ruined
Blot excess water first, then air dry at least 24 hours (24–48 if soaked) somewhere cool and ventilated. Stuff with plain paper, not newspaper, which transfers ink. No radiator, hairdryer, dryer, or direct sun — heat and UV stiffen sheepskin and make it brittle. Once dry, brush the suede one direction to lift the nap. A matted wool interior de-mats with cornstarch or talc and a soft brush or comb — never hot water, which shrinks and mats the fibers.
Protect before you wear them, not after
Sheepskin isn't naturally waterproof, so UGG's official guidance is to treat a new pair with UGG Water & Stain Repellent before the first wear — clean and fully dry the boots first, spray a light, even coat from about 6 inches away, and let it dry ~24 hours. Reapply after every clean and about once a year. The spray can darken sheepskin slightly, so spot-test first. Third-party alternatives like Kiwi's suede products exist but aren't UGG-endorsed.
Odor and storage
For smell (third-party, but widely used): baking soda left inside overnight is the lowest-risk fix; a light vinegar-and-water spritz works too; removable liners can just be washed. Alternating pairs and drying fully between wears prevents most odor.
For storage: clean first, stuff with shape-holders or acid-free tissue (not newspaper), keep cool, dry, low-humidity, out of direct sun. Never a sealed plastic bag — trapped moisture leads to mold. A breathable box with a silica packet works for off-season storage.